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Ewwww.

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Fusion. Premier LIM Shuttle.

I find this interesting kimahri (or however the hell you spell it):

Xpress wrote:
dirty filthy tools

I find tools awesome. Way better than any of you retards can produce with your hand. Clearly, I AM THE NL GOD.
 
You know, the more fuel you give the fire, the bigger the fire gets. Drop all the "me" bashing, and stay on topic you idiots, or I'll be having a little talk to cedar point about these pointless posts.
 
Like Furious Baco? I'd say alternating between size 2 and size three all around. Also, use size two supports for the track connector supports. Matches the track connector size, and makes it look better.
 
Kim, I use:
Small: 3 for main and 2 for track connection, brace and cross brace.
Medium: 3 for main and brace and 2 for track connection and cross brace.
Large: 4 for main, 3 for brace and 2 for track connection and cross braces.
Usually work really good for an Intamin sit down coaster.
 
UncleArly said:
Check my post above yours kim, we posted at the same time so you must have missed it.

Yeah I missed it.

and loefet.

Is small medium large in terms of length or hight?

Atm I have size 3 for main supports and 2 for cross brace.
 
I find it funny that you're bashing me for not being able to make avatars, when you use others avatars, and not your own you arrogant bastard.
 
thank you to Loefet and Error for your testing, you'll be glad to hear that the aweful part after the Zero G has been replaced with something a little more under control. But after that Zero G the ride isn't over, you still have a whole ride back around the lake to connect to the station.

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Whats that in the background?

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one last inversion beofre hitting the brakes.
 
Xpress said:
takes much much more brains to work them.

Really? Lets take a look at the first thing I ever made with AHG:

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It's a no brainer. Even a beginner like me can do it.

Xpress said:
I find tools awesome. Way better than any of you retards can produce with your hand.

Of course it's way better. It does everything for you.

Xpress said:
I AM THE NL GOD.

Really? I thought Buster or Hansixx was. :p
 
How did you do that SFMMMAN?

i really want to learn more how to use the tools, as in, which tools you guys specifically mention and how to use them?

All I've been doing right now was by hand.
 
Ehh, it's a bit hard to explain in a forum, but I'll give my best shot.

First, you need to make a perfect straight segment, around 20-30 meters long. Then press "I" to straighten it up. Now, break it up into 8 segments, each should be an even distance appart. Now highlight all of them, and press "I" again to straighten them up again.

Now, bank the segments like so (with the re-roll turned on for each segment): 0, 15, 35, 55, 75, 75, 55, 35, 15. Now you should have a perfect tracklined segment, with the heartline all wonky.

Now, highlight that element (make sure it's in another editor, all by itself) and double click on it to open up the individual segments settings. Now, check the "individual colors" box, and color the main track pure black (0,0,0). Leave the other color boxes alone.

Now save the element as whatever you like (i.e. heartline roll). Load the track up into the AHG and set the heartline you want (i.e. 1.1 for intamin hyper, 1.3 for floorless, 1.6 for standup -1.1 for intamin invert, ect.). Now load the track into the AHG, and set the number of segments you want to be (i.e. 15-20), and set your precision to about 6-8, and your filter to 100 for woodies, and about 300 for steels. The V-In and V-out is the speed of the train at the beginning of the segment, and the speed of the train after the segment. These will be measured in meters per second. You can find the calculator on NLDC in the coaster calculator section.

Now, after setting those, click heartline, and then save track (it should be automatically saved as (insert track name here)_AHG). Now load the track up and you should get your final product. You will have to tweak the bankings in the beginning and end of the segment to get the bankings exactly 0 degrees for both. The first node should have re-roll turned off.

It takes time. AHG will also not smooth out the tracks for you, but it will smooth the bankings, and properly bank the track for you, provided you set the speed values correctly. If any element has forces of 0.3 and below (i.e. airtime hill), you will need to color that element black to prevent the AHG from turning it into a roll.

I have an AHG tutorial on NLDC so you can take a look at that too.

Well, not really SFMMMan, you really have to do it yourself. Pretty much every element made in elementary is done all by you. Just a lot smoother the first time around.

And that was a joke, they are the true NL builders :p
 
Jer, I do believe that's still very much excellence, as I said to you before on MSN.

Also Kim, very nice roll, now I know it's a wingwalker-thingy...
 
Jer, your work is looking great. I really like the way it interacts with the scenery.

I can't wait for the release now...
 
Kimhari - Those sizes are referring to the height of the support.

Jer - I can take a look at your track again if you need it when it's done.
 
lastadolkg said:
All I've been doing right now was by hand.

That's the best way to do it, you get a much better track as you made it completly yourself so more stisfaction when its done.

Jer, that's looking amazing, I love the colours and it loooks super smooth too.
 
^Yes, no AHG. I've only used it couple of times and I found it useless.

Xpress... ;)
 
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